Slip cork fishing for dummies

[BreamChaser60]

I've been all over this site and the web trying to understand the basics of slip cork fishing,there's a lot of good info out there but I'm the type that needs to understand at a remedial level.

Lots of questions so go easy on me fellas
1)how do you set the stop tight enough to work but still be able to move it to change depth if needed?most videos I've seen,the guys trim the excess off short.
2)what is the best bobber stop?(those fancy rigs they sell at the store,a piece of rubber,dental floss,or something else?)
3)why do you need a bead on top of the cork?what purpose does it serve?is it just a visual aid?
4)how do the fancy weighted bobbers work when you use a split shot on the rig?or don't you use an extra weight with these when casting jigs?
5)is there a certain distance from the jig that you place the split shot?
6)what types of jigs can be used with this rig,can you use tube jigs as well as regular crappie jigs?I cast tube jigs with a spinner,I assume you don't use a spinner with this set-up.
7)do you just cast it out and let it sit or do you need to move it or what?

I know this is a lot to ask and I'm kinda embarrassed to ask all these dumb questions,I'm the same guy who didn't know what FCTM meant, but I've been all over the web and still don't get it. I appreciate any help that you fellas could give me.

[Watertooner]

FCTM = Foot Controlled Trolling Motor or Fishing Crappie Too Much

[BigKyd]

I have another question to add......

8) What rods are good for slip bobbering, I can never seem to find any with the action I want that have eyes big enough as to not impede the bobber stop from passing through.

[Legato]

I just cut a piece of line off and then tie it to where I want the bobber to stop. I make a few knots with it - til its big enough that it will stop the boober - and then cut off most of the excess. You can just slide it up and down the line - just put a little pressure on it and move it :D It holds strong enough to stop the bobber but not strong enough to stop you from moving it. I dont buy any of the bobber stops or use anything else for them.

Weighted bobbers - you dont need much extra weight. It has enough weight for you to cast without adding. The only other weight you want, is for you bait - depending on how deep and how fast you want it.

If you are using a split shot, I wouldnt put it closer to your bait than about 4 inches - 6 would be better. BUT, I use a jig head instead. I find it works just fine and you dont get the twist in your line like how you can with a split shot.

6) All kinds of jigs...I use a spinning (open face) reel for everything :D Works just fine for me.

7) I was taught to let it sit...I dont fish like that though. lol - I let it sit for about 10 seconds when I first cast it. Then, I move it about a foot at a time and let it sit for around 5 seconds. If you just let it sit, you have to wait on a fish to come to it. If you move it, you find the fish.

8) I just use a med action rod. I currently use a Abu Garcia Cardinal (forget # - I think its 101 or something). I also use the matching reel - but thats just me

Hope that helps some

[CrappiePappy]

My $0.02 on your questions :

1 - if using the string type/dental floss ... don't cut the tags any shorter than necessary to keep the bobber stop tag ends from fouling in your reel or guides. If using the rubber ball/bead on a wire ... be sure & get the correct size, to match the line diameter being used. If using the plastic "dog bone" or "ladder" shaped stops ... don't plan on changing depth very often.

2 - subjective to whom you ask. I've used the two "plastic" types (dog bone/ladder) and the rubber ball on a wire. They've all worked, but the downsides to the plastics is that they're hard to move up/down your line & they crinkle the line at any point where they're set ... the downsides to the rubber ball is that it's easy to get hung on the tip eye & so your depth setting gets changed (especially when reeling in a fish), you can get "old" ones that are easily broken or some of them are not completely symetrical, and they do deteriorate over time. So do the plastic ones, but mostly they deteriorate with use ... not just simply over time in storage. The string or floss downsides are both related to the tag lines .... too long & they may snag the reel/line/guides -- too short & they are hard to retighten when moved.

3 - the bead is included with most of the slipknot & rubber ball sets, for the simple purpose of stopping the knot/rubber from going thru the floats hole or getting stuck in it. It's not a necessity, just an accessory ... just in case.

4 - weighted floats are for casting distance. If using a jig/jighead ... extra weights are not necessary, unless you want the jig to reach the set depth with greater speed. If using a regular hook ... extra weight is needed to sink the bait &/or keep it (live) at depth set. Downside to weighted floats is that they sit upright at all times ... so you don't know when your jig or hook/bait is on the bottom, or when you're getting a "lift bite". (lift bite is when the fish grabs the jig/bait & comes up in the water column with it, rather than going down)

5 - if using a weight along with a jig ... 4-6" above the jig is a good minimum distance.

6 - most any type of "jig" can be used under a float. Even those with spinners or spinner rigs (Roadrunner or Beetlespin types) can be used, but they're generally more effective if retrieved with a constant motion ... since the spinner blades won't be doing much when the "jig" is motionless.

7 - generally speaking, you're more likely to get bit with a moving jig. There are circumstances & times when a motionless bait works, but the fish usually have to be in a feeding mood. Even so, there are times when letting the bait sit will work better. Best bet is to try different retrieve rates, and try & determine the current mood of the fish. You've got three basic options ... sit & soak -- stop & go -- constant movement.

8 - my vote would be for a 7-9' rod ... something on the order of a Richard Williams Crappie Wizard rod (7.5' IM7) or one of the BnM or Duckworth Float & Fly rods. Whatever is comfortable to you (length/weight/action/cost) is the way you should go, as "we" may have different opinions on what we like (& the reasons for it). The farther away from you that you intend to put your slipfloat/jig ... the longer the rod needs to be, since you'll have lots of slack to take up with your hookset (depending on depth of bait + distance the float is from rod tip ... and whether or not you're retrieving at the time of the hit).

These are, of course, just my opinions ... based on a somewhat limited experience level, as I'm a rare user of slipfloat rigs, preferring to cast & retrieve a single jig (w/o any accompanying hardware).

... cp

[Spawn]

dental floss works well for me, look at the sticky from shipahoy41, he shows a good bobber stop tie. i like them to vertical jig from kind of a distance

[Bowler]

Not sure how much this will help but take a look.
Bobber and Float Fishing

[BreamChaser60]

Thanks y'all for all the good tips and advice.I'm gonna give this a try,things work out with the crappie fishin,may end up havin to change my name on here.

[KDAVID1]

I like to use this type

I use an 11ft BGJP and set the bobber depth depending on how deep im fishing.
I also use them drifting--to help keep the bait at the correct depth. But I sure aint no expert

[LBM]

All good advice here.

Something not mentioned here that always plagued me when using slip bobbers was that if I got hung up and had to break off I would loose the complete rig and have to retie the complete rigging. It was later that I learned about using two different weights of line when tying up a slip bobber rig so than when you hang up and have to break off you will only loose the hook and the lighter weight line leader.

Using say 8 pound test main line on the reel first put the slip knot on the line then a bead the bobber a second bead and then tie on to the end of your main line a swivel (rated equivalent or better to you main line test). Then tie a short 4 pound test line and sinker and hook onto the swivel.

Hopefully when you get hung up and have to break off you will only have to tie on a new leader and hook and you are ready to go again.

Anyhow good slip bobber fishing.