Likes Likes:  0
Thanks Thanks:  0
HaHa HaHa:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Need help!!! Any success using silicone to mount transducer in hull???

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    405
    Post Thanks / Like

    Question Need help!!! Any success using silicone to mount transducer in hull???


    I need to mount a transducer in the bilge area of my boat. The x-ducer comes with epoxy to mounit. Because of the area that I have to mountn it in I am concerned that if the x-ducer goes bad I will not be able to get it out. I was wondering if anyone on here has had any success with using silicone to mount the transducer. It is a HB puck type x-ducer.

    Thanks for your help.
    PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER!!!
    I QUIT FISHIN, I ONLY GO CATCHIN NOW!!!

  2. #2
    CrappiePappy's Avatar
    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    23,553
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I think the biggest factor in what you use to "seal" the puck against the interior hull wall ... is AIR BUBBLES. Air bubbles are NOT GOOD, so you'd want to use something that did not have them. And even if you use the epoxy, you'd have to make sure to stir/mix it slowly, so as to not induce air bubbles into it.

    I found this discussion, that might interest you : Transducer Mounting Epoxy

    ... cp

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Grenada, MS
    Posts
    19,038
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I'm assuming we're talking a fiberglass boat.....with aluminum, you really need a special transducer.

    Yes, yes I have....1st, get the word silicone out of your mind. You need slow cure epoxy.

    Pretty simple to do:

    Clean the area of the hull. (purple power, simple green or some sort of degreaser) Needs to be as flat a surface on the outside (bottom of the hull as possible) preferably, you'll mount this directly over the pad running surface.

    Lightly scuff the bottom and 1/4 of the side of the ducer with a fine grit sandpaper - so the epoxy will stick to it.

    Build a small dam to contain the epoxy. Last one I did I used playdoh, but you can use about anything similar - like plumbers wax.

    The key is to use slow cure and to precisely mix the epoxy so as to not introduce bubbles into the mixture Bubbles will kill your signal (air pockets). Also, you don't want to do this when it's cold since the temp makes it harder to get the bubbles out of the mix. You can slightly heat the mixture (carful) to get them to release too, if your mixing container can take a flame.

    Once mixed, place your ducer inside the dam and fill the area you've made so the epoxy covers approximately 1/4 up the side of the ducer.

    Let cure for 24 hours.

    Remove dam material and you're good to go.

    Cautions:
    1) Make sure the area you're putting the ducer will work. You don't get but one chance to get it right.

    2) Transducers do go bad, but it's fairly rare. More often than not, the problem of removal comes when you upgrade fish finders. For that reason, you want the mount to have as small of a footprint as possible in case you can't remove, you can redo another one adjacent and still have enough area to make it work.

    3) Just assume that if you have to remove, the transducer will be useless. I've salvaged a few, but in most cases, they're toast.

    4) It's a good idea to test where you will mount by filling the area with water while on the lake and holding the transducer in place and testing the signal.

    5) Make sure when the epoxy is curing that the transducer does not rise up, nor cant to one side or the other. Must be level with the bottom of the boat.

    Really not as hard as I'm making it out, but if you hose it up, it becomes a real issue. I've done several and I'm about to do my new boat the same way. Haven't had one not work well yet.

    Wannabe...
    Wannabe...v2.0
    A lot like the old Wannabe... except with fewer bad words. And Karate chop action. But, yes, still purtier than you.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    902
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I have used silicone for a lowrance ducer in 2 boats and not had any problems.. Be sure to use denatured alcohol on the area your applying the silicone to, and be sure it is clean. Just squeeze a large blob and press the ducer slowly down at a slight angle
    Then apply a brick over the ducer for at least 24 hours.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    stllwell ks
    Posts
    681
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I've used water weld by jb weld and never had an issue

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    1,660
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I epoxied a short section of 3" PVC into my bilge and the 'ducer goes inside it against the hull. Easier to remove the electronics . The PVC cup is filled with mineral oil so that it will not evaporate.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    9,952
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch552 View Post
    I epoxied a short section of 3" PVC into my bilge and the 'ducer goes inside it against the hull. Easier to remove the electronics . The PVC cup is filled with mineral oil so that it will not evaporate.
    Thats a good idea but what keeps the oil from sloshing out.



    MEMBER CRAPPIE MAFIA

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    1,660
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wilbur View Post
    Thats a good idea but what keeps the oil from sloshing out.
    3" PVC cap that I used a dremel to open up a line from one of the sides to the center of the cap. Stick the cable through the drilled area and then it just sits over the short piece of pipe. I haven't had to add any oil this year.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Hot Springs, AR
    Posts
    581
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Wannabe gave you some good advice. I wouldn't worry too much about not being able to get it out when needed. If you just give it a decent wack on the side with a hammer it will pop loose. I wouldn't use silicone but would opt for a slow cure epoxy as he stated, much less chance of air bubbles and or voids. Use plumber's putty to form the dam, it's cheap and found at any hardware store.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Pine bluff AR
    Posts
    287
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    I never Done a ducer but I mounted a foot switch on the floor of my Jon with some real good rtv AMA silicone and never had a prob
    CarDen Lawn Care and Maintenance
    www.cardenlawncare.com
    Cell (870) 329-4675

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

BACK TO TOP