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Thread: Advice needed on new spinning rig

  1. #1
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    Default Advice needed on new spinning rig


    Hi guys,

    I'd appreciate your advice on a new spinning rig. The lake I fish has crappie. LGM bass and perch. It's about 110 acres, avg 8 ft depth and deepest point at 15 feet. I cast from the boat dock with pretty good luck and don't plan to use a boat.

    Here's what I'm currently using (both are spinning rigs): Pflueger 4'6" ultra light graphite rod with Pflueger microcast reel, 4# line. I use this to toss out a bobber while I cast with a Daiwa Samurai combo 5'6" fiberglass rod 8lb line. Don't laugh...I get as many keepers on the boring bobber three feet off the dock as I do casting (the 25" northern was lots of fun on the ultralight, but that's a whole other story!).

    My objective is to cast further than the Daiwa set-up allows me. From the dock I'm casting as far as the 9ft-deep water, but I'd like to get another 25-30 ft. further into the lake where it's about 12 ft depth. I usually cast a 2" grub with either 1/16th or 1/8th ounce jig.

    A few of my requirements:
    I don't want to spend more than $75 total for rod and reel.
    The rod has to be two-piece to fit in the car.

    I've read good stuff about Eagle Claw and am considering the Eagle Claw Gunnison 30 with the Eagle Claw 6'6" Powerlight graphite rod in Medium Light action. I can't imagine needing line heavier than 8lb. At Sportsman's Guide I can do the combo for less than $60.

    Any thoughts and suggestions are much appreciated!

  2. #2
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    I agree with you about getting a longer rod. Combined with a reel with more line capacity will really help you with your distance. If you have a preference for what you primarily fish for and how you want to fish can make a difference. If you are going to fish with a bobber, a cheap glass rod should do the trick.

    Most people on this site who crappie fish can tell you their crappie rods have caught a bunch of bass over the years. If you're going to fish around brush, you're going to need a little backbone, if not, most good crappie rods will have enough.

    Be careful about leaving a rod in the car during the heat of summer. It will severely weaken most lines and could hurt your rod as well. Good luck, you should be able to find what you are looking for. You might try here for the rod, they have a good one you might be interested in that's not too high. Combined with a Phleguer spinning reed (I think it's called the Presidential, it's a good combination) I would still listen to others and shop around) Trout Magnet Online Store, Trout Magnet Fishing Lure

  3. #3
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    Line is important, too. I'd use braid since it's much thinner than mono. Thinner line = more distance.

  4. #4
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    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    My only suggestion would be to get a 7' to 7.5' rod with fast action tip, and match it with a reel that has a large/wide spool ... & still balances on your outstretched finger, when your finger is under the handle where the rod blank goes into it. Balance makes the outfit easier to use, less tiring on your wrist & arm, and becomes an extension of your arm ... as opposed to feeling like a awkward tool in your hand (heavy on either end). The longer rod should help get you the added distance you seek, plus aid in setting the hook from that extra distance. The fast action tip should also help with distance, & hook setting power, while still using the lighter weight lures. The reel should have a wide spool, or "long cast" type spool, in order to allow more inches of line to escape from the reel, per loop of line (around the spool). UL reels are small & light, but have small spools that do not hold much in the way of inches per wrap ... so the distances achieved are less than a larger spool reel, due to the resistance (friction) against the spool lip & line guides. Treating your line with a silicone based line treatment may also help gain some distance. Larger spool reels will also accomodate the heavier line test (8#) if you go that route, and won't create line coils as tight as a UL reel ... helping to lessen the friction/resistance & also line memory.

    Your $75 budget may limit you on overall quality, but it still should be possible to find a rod/reel that fits the above description and still provide you with an outfit that will do what you want.

    ... luck2ya in your search

    ... cp

  5. #5
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    BPS makes a decent rod that fits your budget. It's a Micro Lite, and comes up to 7.5" in several actions. You can catch em on sale for around 20 bucks. I have two of them and they do a good job. Buy the best reel you can with the rest of your budget, and try the nanofil line for distance. It is supposed to cast up to 50% farther. I haven't tried, but read a thread the other day and they said it works.
    We only sell the Best. Ranger, Xpress, Yamaha, Suzuki, Tohatsu.

  6. #6
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    I know you said you don't plan on using a boat but...............the farther you cast the farther you have to reel. And they don't call them papermouths for no reason. Save your cash find you a jon and a trolling motor on craiglist for cheap.
    I aint here to tell you anything. You want to know what Im doing....pm me and meet me on the lake.

  7. #7
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    Check out the Shakespeare Micro Graphite rods and Shimano IXR reel series. More than adequate and checkbook friendly!
    Don't outsmart your common sense!
    Jack

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas.
    BTW, the reason I don't use a boat is that I've only got 90 minutes to fish every morning, from 6am 7:30am. I can shower, eat and be at work by 8:30am, but there's not enough time to rig and de-rig a boat. Plus, fishing from the dock has been pretty good.
    Thanks again.

  9. #9
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    if I were to go get another spinner setup it would be a
    7ft Ugly Stick Lite with a Micro Lite BPS Spinner.
    Bass Pro ShopsŪ Micro Lite™ Elite Spinning Reels

  10. #10
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    Here are the secrets for long casts with light gear and lures. It's a combination of all your gear and then using the right technique casting. Reel? - Most important item. Without a great casting reel, nothing else will matter. Line management is key#1. This is where your going to have a problem with your budget. At the very minimum, your budget would only buy the cheapest of reels that have good line management. What you want is good spool design. A shallow, longer spool with a very smooth titanium lip. The fact is that the better reel companies with the upper end reels have spent more development dollars designing spools that cast well. Skinny little ultralite spools don't cast as far as wider larger spools, so use the largest lightweight reel you can. Next key is an oscillating reel. That means the spool moves faster in one direction, either up or down than the other. Doing this cross wraps the line on the spool, keeping the line from pulling into itself under pressure, and wrapping the line tighter on the spool. When you cast the line interferes less with itself and releases from the spool more freely.

    Next is your rod. Flimsy ultralites don't cast as far as stiffer light action rods with a fast taper. Rods that bend further towards the end and have a flexible tip. Like mentioned above, longer rods cast further, but not too long. 6.5 to 7.5 light action is what you want. Higher modulus rods tend to have the characteristics that allow for long casts. Just be sure you have a flexible tip. Stiff rods don't "fling" well.

    Line. Thin, limp, and untwisted casts furthest. Braided super lines cast farther than monos, and have better sensitivity once you lure is out there. Problem is one spool of superline will take up half your budget. That leaves Mono. Get copolymer. It's thin and strong enough to straighten hooks. Mccoy, sufix tritanium, Berklet maxx.

    Your biggest problem is price range. If you really want quality you need to spend at least $150
    Good things come to those who bait.


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