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Thread: Tansducer on a bracket??

  1. #1
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    Default Tansducer on a bracket??


    Well I'm having problems getting the pool noodle to stick to silicone or double sided tape when I install transducer in the hull. So I'm thinking of installing it in the front of my yak. I'm looking for ideas and photos of some brackets if anyone has any thank you!!

  2. #2
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    I'm in the process of setting-up an inflatable, and here's my solution. On the rear there are a couple of plastic rigging blocks which have holes running vertically through them (as well as horizontally for ropes) which are a very snug fit for a piece of 1/2" CPVC pipe, so the 2 outside smaller legs will slip down into those, and the transducer will mount on the middle (longer) leg. I will be inflating the raft today or tomorrow and will get some pics of it in-place (which will be better than the way I'm explaining it I'm sure). Do you have anything you could possibly zip-tie a temporary mount to? I looked for a pic of your kayak, but couldn't find one (would help spot something that might help), or a link to somewhere that sells them to see a pic?

  3. #3
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    This is what the front of my yak looks like. There is about a 1/2 hole where the handle rope goes through. I was thinking of some kind of pole/rod going straight up n down below it and screwing into the pole/rod from the top using the existing hole. Name:  IMG_1682.jpg
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  4. #4
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    Not sure how you'd feel about holes on your yak, but look (google images) at well-nuts. They are a threaded insert which installs like a pop-rivet (and require a "gun", but you can get a cheap kit at Menards). You could make a PVC "T", and add an elbow and section of pipe to drop your transducer under water-level. Lay the T on your bow with the elbow and drop section of pipe hanging over the bow. Use some spring type clamps (like for holding a broom against the wall) or a conduit clamp or strap at each end of the T, as well as one on the leg just before the elbow going over the bow. You'd just need to install the clamps when you hit the water, or could leave them in place if they weren't in the way between fishing trips. you could just pop the center leg of the T out of the clamp, and it would allow the transducer to be rotated up and out of the water if needed. If none of this makes sense, let me know & I might be able to draw it and post a pic.

  5. #5
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    Sorry for the poor art-work, the 3 red spots are clamp locations. I'd use at least 3/4" PVC, and possibly 1", depending on how long a piece you need to drop from the bow to (under)water level (to the point your transducer needs to be). Flex a piece of pipe when you go look at it, you can decide how rigid it needs to be,

  6. #6
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    I was also thinking of something with PVC like that as well. I was thinking of going along the top edge of the yak with PVC. Instead of going straight like you have it, go along the green lines of the yak. Maybe I could do like you have it, except not having the straight PVC so long to where it goes over the storage hatch. I could possibly stop in front of it, if there's enough space.

  7. #7
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    You know, now that you mention it, instead of a "T", you could make an "H" (with one long leg to add the elbow to for the drop piece to mount your transducer to) that would fit under your hatch straps, then you wouldn't need to add any holes to your yak. Plus, if you're careful, you can heat and bend PVC (just fill it with sand 1st to prevent it from kinking). You need something other than just a straight drop, so it doesn't rotate and throw-off your reading.

  8. #8
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    I wish I still had my old kayak to get a pic. I had the same kayak and velcroed the transducer to the side of the kayak. I fish some shallow waters and needed it to be able to removeable. I took some some 1"x 1/8" aluminum and bent it to the shape of the kayak and left a lip on the end, took the original bolt in the HB transducer and bolted it to the lip. With the velcro between bracket and kayak it never came off unless it got knocked off by a stump or rocks.

  9. #9
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    Here is what I did with my revolution:
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    I just bent an aluminum bracket for the ducer, attached it with a bolt, and taped the wire with electric tape. Its held for 3 years and counting. Its all attached with a ram mount so I can adjust it to how ever I want it that day. The battery is below deck in a lite weight seal-a-meal bag for easy access to charge it.

    It does collect weeds n stuff, but it also gives great readings as the sensitivity isnt dulled by shooting thru the hull.
    If vegetable oil is made from vegetables, what's baby oil made from?


  10. #10
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    Btw: You will definitely want your transducer within reach to pull debris off it. It sometimes acts like a magnet to anything floating in the water. You also don't want to run it into the ground when launching or coming ashore - it will get damaged and they are not too cheap to replace.

    Do you have scupper holes? They make ducers to fit them. And ones on suction cups, but they come loose after a while. Just a thought...
    If vegetable oil is made from vegetables, what's baby oil made from?


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