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Thread: Hook Sharpener Tip

  1. #1
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    Default Hook Sharpener Tip


    I know some of you have tried hook sharpeners (battery) and files, but recently I tried my wife's Dremel to sharpen and sand. Sharpeners have their limitations because you can't change heads having less grit and can take off too much metal at the tip resulting in a ruined hook. Dremels take many attachments such as thin abrasive discs , cones and cylinders, have low and high spin rpm settings and are rechargeble. Nice is being able to buy disc replacement packs for a buck each at the dollar store.

    For those not familiar with the Dremel, it's rechargeable in a short period of time and one charge lasts hours and days depending on rpm and frequency.

    I usually try to check my hooks before leaving the house. Rust is the eventual death of all hooks it comes in contact with and a fast way to take it off is with a thin abrasive flex disc with low grit which I've also found better to sharpen hooks with. I lightly sand three sides for a diamond point and do a much better job than with a file. The sharpened point easily catches my finger nail.

    Sanding the lead on the sides fof leadhead jigs to make them shiny is also something I've done for years which I think adds to a grubs appeal. I used to use light grit sand paper but my arthritis makes it difficult to sharpen many hooks or jigheads at one time.

    Great, small inexpensive tool with so many uses!

    FrankM
    Last edited by Spoonminnow; 12-12-2010 at 09:12 AM.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the great info.

    I sincerely hope you are wearing a dust mask when sanding lead. Also paint or plastic finshes when sanding those also.
    Good Fishing, Mac

  3. #3
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    Good point! I thought just wearing protective glasses was enough. I started wearing the mask when I
    pour plastics and will do so when sanding.

    Thanks

  4. #4
    skeetbum's Avatar
    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum
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    Be careful sanding or grinding lead for 2 reasons. Suspending the dust in the air makes it easier to breathe, and we know we don't want that stuff in our lungs. Also non-ferrous metals will gather on a grinding wheel into bigger lumps and leave the wheel. If they're at a high rpm they become a projectile, so glasses are in order.
    Creativity is just intelligence fooling around

  5. #5
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    I've gone to chemically sharpened sickle hooks.
    Just put on a new one.
    Keep it simple.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMack View Post
    I've gone to chemically sharpened sickle hooks.
    Just put on a new one.
    Keep it simple.
    +1
    We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing."

  7. #7
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    Sanding lead also sends it airborne and to other areas that you might overlook when cleaning. It's just not a good idea. Use a file, it will help contain the lead preventing accidental poisonings.
    All lakes raise a foot when I step in the boat

  8. #8
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    I just use either sickle or Gamakatsu and a few more and never need to sharpen them, at least I don't have to and I am a sharp hook freak.

    Besides if you buy hooks that need sharpening and use something like a Dremel (moving that fast) to sharpen them it would be very hard to not take out any temper in the hook making it dull even faster.

    Skip

    Peak Vise Dealer
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    have the Saltwater Neck Hackle and some
    colors of Marabou plus other things!

  9. #9
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    I have a couple of the old battery powered Berkley line stripper/hook sharpeners and it only takes a few spins to sharpen any hook right back up. Gotta agree with Skip, the dremel could easily take the temper out if it gets too hot.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMack View Post
    I've gone to chemically sharpened sickle hooks.
    Just put on a new one.
    Keep it simple.
    Where would I find some of those?

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