View Full Version : Ranger 619 Trailer

11-29-2010, 06:25 PM
I've got a 2001 Ranger 619 I bought about a year ago that I can't seem to get the trailer figured out....when I'm loading the boat the bow roller is hitting way up high and I"m having a really hard time getting the boat to pull up tight to the roller....there are some adjustment holes on the trailer and I was wondering if anyone had any idea about how it should be set up or what else I could do to make loading a little easier???????

11-29-2010, 07:23 PM
I'm no pro but were it mine I would take it to a Ranger dealer and see what they have to say. They would be more familiar with it than anyone else, I would think. Keep us posted.

11-29-2010, 08:47 PM
It sounds like your backing in to deep for the way your trailer is positioned to the boat so it's not allowing the bunks to do their job and angle you properly . Also are your bunks dry when you pull up to the winch?

11-29-2010, 08:49 PM
I've have a 617 for about 11 yrs now and I know that the Ranger fisherman series boats can be difficult to load at first. Especially if you're used to loading a bass boat. I struggled with mine for some time.
It sounds to me like you're backing the trailer too far into the water. I back mine down until only a few inches of the outside bunks are above water.
It takes some pulling to bring the hook up to the roller.
Hope this helps you.

11-29-2010, 08:51 PM
Are you power loading or winching it up? My 91 690 would be almost impossible to winch up. I sink my trailer with about 3" of fender well sticking above water. I can ease my boat up to about one foot from the bow roller. Then I give it some gas and drive it up the last foot. If I don't do that then there is a small sweet spot that would have to be hit. Trailer in too deep, boat is floating high and will stike or be above bow roller. If you lock it in at this position, when boat settles on trailer as it comes out of the water, you will put too much strain on boat eye and winch stand. Not in the water deep enought and you will have to winch your arm out of socket and still my not get that boat to move.

How is your tounge weight? That is a good indicator of where the boat should be. How about your rear tie down straps? Do they touch the back of the boat? They should come from the trailer eyes to the transom rings without touching the hull (well, with out wrapping the hull any). And these straps should be vertical or leaning slightly rear ward.


Crappie Gobbler
11-30-2010, 07:33 AM
I use to have problems with my 692 because I was backing it too far in since I back to when the fenders are just under the water it drives right up perfect. Also, periodically try spraying you bunks with a silcone spray to help with loading and unloading.

11-30-2010, 10:33 AM
Should you spray the bunks with silicone spray, be careful of backing down the ramp with the boat disconnected. Slick is slick and a steep ramp or a touch of the brakes a bit too hard you just might drop the boat on the ramp instead of in the water. It's a good idea for loading stubborn boat though and worth a try. I had a bit of a learning curve with my bass boat that I fish from. It's my first big boat and much heavier than anything I've ever owned but once I understood the sweet spot, it's a snap to load and I fish alone about half the time.

Slab Slinger
11-30-2010, 12:40 PM
Pull your truck up to where the fenders of the trailer are half out of the water. Every time I see someone having trouble on the boat ramp, their trailer is always too deep. Try this--bet it works

11-30-2010, 04:56 PM
Thanks for the advice....I'm gonna keep trying to figure it out....gonna try to contact the ranger folks and see what they say also....maybe it's just gonna be hard to load since it's so heavy....

12-01-2010, 04:13 PM
Just my two cents but I think you should have someone helping you to find out what is best. Have them on the ramp...watching you as you pull up...have them watch the bow eye. I always like to be at the depth to where I can ease up to where you need to be to tighten the boat down. Like bumping the bow stop/roller. Then with the boat still in gear and idling walk to the front...bend over and connect the winch and tighten...shut off engine and pull out. When you can ease up to that point, record where the water is in relation to the fenders. Remember this or jot it down somewhere and put it on your visor. Do this for the ramps you frequent. Take a look at your little note before you back in for that particular ramp...back to that depth...then pull up on the trailer. Sounds like alot of work...but after you do it enough you'll have it memorized anyways and will do it automatically. Seen to many people come up and nearly break a winch trying to get the boat on the trailer...or ramping the outboard up trying to get it loaded. Just do this once and don't fight with it anymore. :)

Slab Slinger
12-01-2010, 08:12 PM
Scrapper is right! It seems every boat ramp that I use is different. Always remember----don't get it too big a hurry---boats are too expensive to damage because you don't load them on the trailer properly. Never forget to tie down the transom and put your motor toter on, either.

12-02-2010, 02:13 AM
I think it may be a ramp angle issue also. My 187 Champion loads like a dream everywhere but one ramp. Finally figured it out that it was the angle of the ramp that was causing it. So had to not back the trailer in as far and that helped out a bunch. My fender wheels have to be just under the water about an inch or two and I can idle mine on and it will jit the roller and still not be floating off the bunks. When I got it I was going to add a roller to each sideto help center it for loading but t loads so easy I never bought them. But once you figure out what is best depth to back it in remember it and try to duplicate everytime.