If you have an aluminium boat and a trans. mount transducer it's probably air bubbles from the hull when you go over 10 mph.
Does anybody on here have a lowrance 332c? When I get my boat over 10mph the sonar gets all fuzzy. Does anybody else have this problem? Anybody know how I could fix it?
Last edited by eep; 10-19-2005 at 05:56 PM.
If you have an aluminium boat and a trans. mount transducer it's probably air bubbles from the hull when you go over 10 mph.
I do have a aluminum boat. Is there anything I can do to get the air bubbles to stop interfering with the transducer?
Thanks
I tried everything I could think of on my old boat. I moved the transducer up, down, and different positions on the transom. Nothing solved the problem compleatly. Maybe someone else on the forum has solved this problem, I'd like to know myself.
Its a tough problem, but you should be able to adjust the transducer to where it be able to work better at speeds grater than 10mph. You just might not get it to work at top speed. I have a transom mount 'ducer and it will read up to about 40mph. My previous shoot thru transducer would read all the way to top end of 62. The only real way to fix it with an aluminum boat is a thru hull transducer. Not a shoot thru type like you would epoxy onto the inside of a fiberglass hull, but one that you actually cut a hole and it mounts through the hull. And most people don't like the thought of that. I did read something about a new aftermarket transuducer that is capable of shooting through tin boats a while back though. If I can find it I'll post a link...
here ya go...http://www.vexilar.com/products/alumaducer.htmlalumaducer
heres another link to bass boat central's tin boats forum and a couple guys opinions that have used the alumaducer... bbc
This might be a good option for crappie people. I know most people run aluminum boats.
Last edited by fiddlefarter; 10-19-2005 at 09:42 PM.
Ya ain't holdin' your mouth right.
I have the LMS 480 (The black and white version of the 332) mounted on my AL boat and I have not had any problems. Mine will work up to ~30 mph on smooth water. The rougher the water the slower I have to go to get good reads.
LET IT RIP!
eep, give Linda Colt at Lowrance a call. I have a 332C and had problems with the GPS. She took care of it over the phone,,,SHE'S GOOD!!! 1-800-324-1356 X8747. She WILL give you things to try and won't give-up till it's fixed!! <*)}}}><
You'll see the difference,,,on the end of your line! PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER
Ive got a LMS 480 also and dont have any problem with the bubble interferance but did have the GPS wire come out of the back of the unit. It separated from the little blue twist knob. If this happens to you...DO NOT TRY TO PLUG IT BACK IN. I did and the guy at Lowrance said I probably fried my antenna. They sent me a new cord free of charge and it still doesnt work. Will have to call them back to see if they will do anything about the antenna. Billy
Is the hull riveted? There is almost nothing you can do if this is the case. The rivets create too much turbulence for the transducer.Originally Posted by eep
You can try and put the transducer a little deeper in the water and aim it slightly forward. If that does not improve the problem, you may have it mounted too close to a strake and need to move it. My 332c is mounted to the trolling motor, but my 67c is mounted to the transom. I can get to about 25 mph before I begin to lose the return signal.
If you still have good bottom definition at 10 mph and a lot of interference in the water column, try turning down the sensitivity, activating noise reduction, and activating Hyperscroll. That should help.
Keith
2008 NWR Bash Crappie Champion
2010 NWR Bash Yellow Perch Champion
2010 Buggs Bash Smallest Crappie Award
I must agree with the above quote, but not necessarily with the stuff about the rivets. DEFINITELY try to lower the xducer and tilt it "forward" meaning: lowering the ass end of it until it is lower than the front end. It is possible that you will need to remount it on the transom to a different horizontal location to keep it in "a clean flow of water free of bubbles". Rivets can create bubbles, but it should be possible to find a spot where it works good. The transducer should be mounted with its centerline about 1/2 to 1 inch below the main bottom of the hull. It is very important to find the right spot to mount it "in the beginning" so that you don't wind up with 10 holes in your transom!Originally Posted by PanMan_VA
More stuff:
1) The bottom of the xducer should remain clean and free of oils. Clean it with some spray cleaner and a paper towel when in doubt.
2) If it has scratches or gouges it should be sanded, but always sand from front to back, and from coarse to finer sandpaper. Finish with 400 grit or finer. Use some spray cleaner and "wet sand" it.
3) Your sensitivity adjustment is EXTREMELY CRITICAL for that problem. Some of the automatic sensitivity adjustments on various sonar units always set too high. So does mine, so I always use manual adjustments and I can always get rid of excess "noise" by turning it down.
PS I have succeeded with attaching an older disc shaped Eagle transducer to the inside bottom of my 'tin' boat with epoxy and it works great! Everything I heard said it wouldn't work, but it does. It remains there as a spare in case I ruin my transom mount xducer on a trip. I just plug the thru-hull into the sonar unit and keep fishing!
Sorry for my Crappie attitude.