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Thread: how many

  1. #1
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    Default how many


    people cast over brush piles? i have never fished brush piles this way. i slow troll or pull about 99% of the time. i have been considering learning a new tactic here, but i am not really sure where to start as far as jig size or how to fish the jig. i would think you'd want a small jig that would fall slow to stay in the strike zone longer. i want a tactic that will produce the largest amount of fish in the smallest amount of time when fish are stacked up on the piles. any help would be appreciated here.

  2. #2
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    Default Sometimes

    I will cast on piles on occasion, but it's usually after I have vertical jigged the brushpile and found the edges. I throw a 1/32 or 1/16 oz jig and count it down. I try this until I find the depth the fish are in. I use a slow steady retrieve unless the fish are right at the bottom of the pile and then I use a slow pumping action while slow reeling, bumping it off bottom just out from the brushpile. On top of it I count down til I start hitting brush and shorten my count by 1 and slow reel across the top. I prefere vertical jigging with a pole, so someone should be able to help alot more than me. Crappiepappy has an article on "Vertical-casting" that I believe would help you. Use the seach engine and type in "vertical casting". He fishing alot of brushpiles and structure by casting. Hope this helps.
    (I came back and put in the address to save you time.)

    http://www.crappie.com/articles/crappiepappy.htm
    Last edited by Mo'nBack; 10-02-2005 at 10:40 PM.
    Catch and Release: Catch the slabs and Release the little'uns

  3. #3
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    CrappiePappy is offline Super Moderator - 2013 Man Of The Year * Crappie.com Supporter
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    Exclamation Casting over submerged cover ...

    be it a brush pile, blowdown tree, totally submerged standing tree, stump bed, or whatever .... is quite productive, at times. Realistically, you can do this in depths of up to 15ft - with a long cast, and slow retrieve, using a 1/16oz jig (as long as the wind isn't blowing too strong). Shallower than that, and you can use a 1/32oz or smaller - deeper than that, and I would go up to a 1/8oz jig. Adjustments can be made, for deeper depths, by allowing the jig to fall before starting the retrieve (countdown method, as described by Mo'nBack)
    Line size (diameter) is also a factor. Generally I'm using 6lb test mono, or 10/2 PowerPro braid ... and a weedless jighead. I like to cast over the top of the wood, first (not touching any wood), to pick off any fish suspended above it -- then I'll try and tic the top branches and end & side branches -- then probe down "inside" the cover. If I'm getting hits while "inside", and factors dictate that I "can" get directly above the cover - or "have to" get directly overhead, for a better presentation, then I'll start using the Vertical Casting method. Also, if I can't get to the cover for some reason, by casting, (like overhanging obstructions, high wind, dense surface cover, etc) then I'll "start" with the vertical approach.

    One thing that I haven't mentioned lately, that goes along with casting over submerged wood, even with a weedless jighead, is what I call "taking a bow" to avoid getting hung on a branch. Even weedless jigheads can & will get hung, sometimes. This can be avoided, to an extent. When retrieving the jig, usually the line will swing back to you ... and you will notice it at the point where it enters the water (it will continue to get closer to you, as you reel in). When it stays in one spot, as you reel in, that indicates that the line is draped over something submerged in the path of your retrieve. As you continue to reel, eventually the jig will come in contact with that obstacle. As it does, and when the rod tip starts to bend down, a lot of people tend to try and "jerk" the jig over it. That works, sometimes, but quite often - they get hung. I try and avoid getting hung in the cover I'm fishing, so as not to have to break off - disturbing the cover, losing the bait, or alerting the fish to any unnatural conditions. I do this by "taking a bow" - with the rod tip.
    In essence - I wait until the jig comes in contact, and the rod tip starts to bend ... then I drop the rod tip about 6" towards the jig, and in one fluid motion raise the rod tip up towards me about 12". This is not done fast, like a jerking motion ... but, more of a slow drop and lift motion. What this does (or seems to do) is allow the bait to fall away from the obstacle - then when you lift it back (twice as far as you let it fall away) the head of the jig "bumps" the obstacle, and "hops" up overtop of it. Well, most of the time, anyway. The reason I don't drop it down 6" and then lift it up more than 12" - is that I want the jig to clear the obstacle, but remain in the general area. I will work a tree top over, with this method, bumping and bowing and hopping the jig over multiple branches. Another reason I don't pull the jig back more than 12", or reel it back in (once I've cleared the branch) ... is because I've had numerous occasions where I've had a fish hit the jig, once it cleared the obstacle and started coming back towards me. In fact, it's happened often enough that I almost "expect" to get a hit, when "taking a bow" over a branch. ........... luck2ya .........cp

    (thanks for the reference, Mo'nBack ! Hope the method works as well, for you, as it does for me)

  4. #4
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    Good info crappiepappy...
    I'll have to put that into memory. LOL!
    LET IT RIP!

  5. #5
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    Thanks Crappiepappy that was well worth the reading. Will try that out in the next few days.
    PEte

  6. #6
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    Crappiepappy-Great reading and I"d say you covered it on horizonal jiggin wood!!!
    Good Fishin To Ya!! Dennis Dale Hollow Crappie www.dalehollowcrappie.4t.com

  7. #7
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    thanks for the good info.

  8. #8
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    Default Tried CP's methods

    I want to thank CP for the info. I fished with my UL for about 2-3 hours yesterday using the "taking a bow" method. I only got one bump from this, but it was after bowing my Road Runner over a limb. It hit so hard and so fast that I missed it. What did happen good was the fact that I didn't break a single line on the UL all the time I fished with it. Fished logs and brushpiles the whole time and even though I got hung a couple of times, I would just get to the top of the hang and lift it back opposite the way it had hung and it would come loose. First time not breaking a line with the UL. Broke about 6-8 times with my jig poles. Fish were biting slow, but I believe that once I master this method, that I can work brushpiles very effectively with the UL and not just my jig poles.
    Catch and Release: Catch the slabs and Release the little'uns

  9. #9
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    Thumbs up Hey Mo'nBack ...

    I generally use the "take a bow" method, when using a weedless jighead - but, it has worked very well with the non-weedless ones, too. Glad to see you had such success with keeping your RR's :D
    Next time out - take your UL and put a 1/32oz weedless jighead on - put a plastic body, of your choice, on the jig - and crawl it up, over, and through the branches of those brushpiles ... especially if the bite is slow. Watch your line, when the jig "bumps" over the branch and starts to fall. Even during a slow or soft bite, it seems to elicit a pretty good "thump" :p when they hit.

    Oh, and you are welcome ... hope it continues to help you, and puts some slabs in your boat !! ......... luck2ya ......cp

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the great in-sight on this method of retrieve CP. A real PRO pointer.

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