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Thread: Kicking 60amp breaker

  1. #1
    M R Dux's Avatar
    M R Dux is offline Crappie.com Legend , 2018 Crappie.com Man of the Year * Crappie.com Supporter * Member Sponsor
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    Default Kicking 60amp breaker


    My wife and I were out yesterday trying out a new prop. Prop was great except I found out my engine is bolted too high. Kept losing water pressure and getting alarms.

    When I loaded the boat, my wife didn’t get it up on the trailer as far as needed. I strapped it down before I realized it needed to go forward a few inches. I backed it back into the water long enough to crank it up a few inches. A 4000 pound boat has to be exactly right on trailer to pull right. While it was backed down it flooded my battery compartment and my double auto bilge pumps kicked on and pumped it out.

    I got home and started getting boat ready for a guide trip. I noticed I had the 60 amp breaker for my engine tripped. When I reset it, I hear a motor running down inside by the transom then it will trip the breaker. I checked every switch on the boat and none were on. I reset it again and tried the hydraulic jack plate and engine trim before breaker tripped again. I still hear a motor noise deep inside the boat. I’m thinking I have an auto bilge pump locked up and trying to run. The pumps are 1200 gph. Is it possible a pump motor like this would trip a 60 amp breaker? I have never tripped it before.

    Getting to the pumps involves removing my 3 100 pound golf cart batteries. That is a back-breaking job since they are jammed into a space with my two other batteries.

    I have no other idea what I might be hearing. Any ideas?


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    Possibly the float switch stuck in the on position. Causing the bilge pump to run on your drive home overheating it and causing it to short out tripping the breaker. Do the bilge pumps have a manual,auto,off switch. That would be a way to eliminate or verify the bilge pump is the problem
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    a bilge with no water on it will get hot for sure , might be the issue , if all else fails you could do a little unhook of the wires under the dash and possibly trouble shoot if its one of the bilges that way ?
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    I had one clogged with trash and stalled a couple of months ago. It was extremely hot when I realized what was going on. Couldn't here it run. It got replaced
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  5. #5
    "G"'s Avatar
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    Ask Excel....or call Rickey
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    I find a clamp-on ammeter (I have a Fluke 365) indispensable for tracing faults without detaching any wires - try to borrow one. Find the wire that has the current and trace it. DC motors draw the most current when the rotor is locked or jammed, maybe the noise is a hum. 60A is a lot, that's a lot more than locked-rotor amp draw, so the motor may be burnt - if that what it is.
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    Ask Canepole


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    Quote Originally Posted by "G" View Post
    Ask Excel....or call Rickey
    It will be Rickie in that bilge ... Dux ain’t climbing in there with a brand new hip

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    The small wires of the pump would burn up with 60 amps going through them
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  10. #10
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    All the properly wired bilge pumps I've seen have a 10-15 amp fuse, maybe something else has gotten wet and has shorted out.
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