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Thread: Solution for fish finder draining cranking battery?

  1. #21
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    Something I thought maybe I should mention here. Maybe everyone knows this or would disagree with me but I think this is good info. You can actually charge your deep cycle batteries too much. Depending on how much you use them on a daily trip they may not need recharged. They should be drawn down a good ways before recharging. If they are always topped off after only 10 or 20 percent usage it can actually harm them. That is why they are called deep cycle. Draw them down and bring them back up!!! Am I right on this??
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zinger View Post
    Something I thought maybe I should mention here. Maybe everyone knows this or would disagree with me but I think this is good info. You can actually charge your deep cycle batteries too much. Depending on how much you use them on a daily trip they may not need recharged. They should be drawn down a good ways before recharging. If they are always topped off after only 10 or 20 percent usage it can actually harm them. That is why they are called deep cycle. Draw them down and bring them back up!!! Am I right on this??
    Actually, no ... that's not correct. "Deep Cycle" means it can withstand greater depth of discharge levels. And anytime they fall below 80% charged, sulfation occurs on the plates and can cause loss of capacity and/or become impossible to recharge to a fully charged state.

    (as per my interpretation of statements on this site : DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS )

    ... cp
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    I thought that was what I was saying. Guess I don't explain myself very well!!

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    Here is some more good info to go along with Pappy's Deep Cycle Battery FAQ
    It is most important to recharge immediately after every use. This will prolong the batteries life. Never hook electronics to the trolling motor batteries. This will prolong your electronics life. I run 2 depth finders and aerator all day off the starting battery (group 31) and have never had it give out on me. Definitely have your starting battery load tested.
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    If your trolling why not just shut the console unit off?
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrelslime View Post
    If your trolling why not just shut the console unit off?
    My console has my side image that I like to be able to watch (TM is just DI) and using both also allows me to know the depth for both ends of the boat, front and back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clint View Post
    Another solution might be to give the FF its own battery. You didn't say what FF you are using, but my HB Helix 5 DI GPS pulls about 650 mAH and I have a 7AH gel cell dedicated to it alone. I can run it for over 10 hours before depleting the battery. The batteries can be had for less than $30 and a good charger less than $20. My battery is about 8" long 4" wide and 6" high so it is easy to find a place to tuck it in any area. It doesn't spill so can be in a closed storage compartment and given the low current draw you can use fairly small wire to get the power to the console. At one point I considered mounting my battery under the console so I wouldn't have to run any wires at all other from it to the FF. I have wiring in place so it ended up in the Gas Tank/Starting Battery area just forward of the transom.
    What brand and model battery are you running. My console FF is ok but my bown FF gets a lot of interference from my TM. Screen gets fuzzy when I use the TM. I've tried all kinds of things to eliminate it but cant.
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    NOCO Genius Boost Sport GB70 UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter | West Marine

    This is product that will help. Be very careful with jumper cables. I arc can be terror on your outboard and electronics. I agree with Catfan a switch can be good but can create excessive current to electronics. Proper size and quality batteries are the key. Battery maintenance and a good onboard charger is a must. I have a 4 bank Noco Genius that I plug in as soon as I get in. It stays plugged in till I head out again. I even tried to leave it plugged in as I headed to the lake once.Thank goodness it came unplugged at connection with no damage.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabepeeps View Post
    What brand and model battery are you running. My console FF is ok but my bown FF gets a lot of interference from my TM. Screen gets fuzzy when I use the TM. I've tried all kinds of things to eliminate it but cant.
    Had that problem until i cleared out the stuff from one of my upfront storage spaces and put a battery in there just to run my front electronics. Wired the electronic cables with clips and inline fuse and hook it directly to that battery. I charge that battery every other trip out but it can be removed after every trip to charge if need be.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill View Post
    Here is some more good info to go along with Pappy's Deep Cycle Battery FAQ
    It is most important to recharge immediately after every use. This will prolong the batteries life. Never hook electronics to the trolling motor batteries. This will prolong your electronics life. I run 2 depth finders and aerator all day off the starting battery (group 31) and have never had it give out on me. Definitely have your starting battery load tested.
    Why is it a problem to use electronics on the TM battery and why will it affect the life of the electronics?

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