Thread: Motor Help!!??

You do not have to pull the flywheel on that engine. Here is the best way to check and set timing I have seen. Its by Joe Reeves over on iboats.com.

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for Johnson/Evinrude


Joe
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(Timing At Cranking Speed 4°)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: If your engine has the "Fast Start" feature", you must disconnect/eliminate that feature in order to use the following method. The "Fast Start" automatically advances the spark electronically when the engine first starts, dropping it to normal when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

The full spark advance can be adjusted without have the engine running at near full throttle as follows.

To set the timing on that engine, have the s/plugs out, and have the throttle at full, set that timer base under the flywheel tight against the rubber stop on the end of the full spark timer advance stop screw (wire it against that stop if necessary).

Rig a spark tester and have the gap set to 7/16". Hook up the timing light to the #1 plug wire. Crank the engine over and set the spark advance to 4° less than what the engine calls for.

I don't know the full spark advance setting your engine calls for, but to pick a figure, say your engine calls for 28°, set the timing at 24°. The reasoning for the 4° difference is that when the engine is actually running, due to the nature of the solid state ignition componets, the engine gains the extra 4°.

If you set the engine to its true setting at cranking speed, when running it will advance beyond its limit by 4° which will set up pre-ignition causing guaranteed piston damage! You don't want that to take place.

No need to be concerned about the idle timing as that will take care of itself. The main concern is the full advance setting.

Be sure to use your own engines spark advance settings, not the one I picked out of the air here in my notes.
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you can do this with any automotive style timing light. before you do it make for sure that the linkages are advancing timing as they should...all your linkages need to be greased every year. if they hang a little until your engine gets good and warm then they free up...that would be an EASY problem to fix. Keep us informed.

Sorry Scrapper it was an assumption about the ignition. I do not have the software on this comp to verify, you are likely right about the none optical.

I don't think its a timing issue...they don't fix themselves.

That is what leads me to electronic...something cuts out.

TMD

Nothing to be sorry about. I'm kind of a history buff when it comes to those engines. Just really like reading about the history of outboards and where they have been. Was wondering if I might have missed something. LOL. I was just verifiying.

You don't think the advance linkage could loosen up as the engine warms?? I was just trying to think of easy "free" stuff he could check. I HATE grimlins!! lol

I had exactly the same symptoms you described on a 60hp Evinrude years ago. I finally narrowed it down to the primer bulb. There is a plastic one way check valve in the bulb, and it had come apart. I unhooked the fuel line, pushed the valve in that hooks to the motor with a screwdriver, and tried to pump fuel with the bulb. It would squirt for a little while, and then just trickle. I fooled and messed with it on a trip, finally drove 60 miles to the nearest Wally world and bought a new bulb and solved the problem.

Advance timing could be tested statically...to see if its full advance or breaking down at any time.

The Marine Doctor - A quick video on Static Timing of an Engine

Has a cyl drop test been performed?
The Marine Doctor - Cylinder Drop Test

TMD

had 40hp 3 cyl doing the same thing and the power pack was bad, 1 cyl. wasnt firing.with the engine running took 1 plug wire off at a time.when i pulled one off and no change in the engine traced it to the power pack.thats the shade tree way.

One of my Carb's gasket was leaking and caused mine to do same problem.