Thread: Boat Trailer Maintenance, Tips, FAQ

Thought I would start this up. Will be adding more to it as we go along. I know many have trailer problems...or just do not do the maintenance they should. So I'll be compiling a bunch of information on this. Let me know if some of the links do not work! Thanks!

Packing Wheel Bearings Instruction and Photos (etrailer.com)

Next group of photos from familyhandyman.com

Breakdown of the typical hub.

Photo 1: Remove the wheel
Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Be sure that the trailer is supported with jack stands and the opposite wheel is blocked.

Photo 2: Remove the dust cap
Pry the dust cap loose with a large screwdriver.

Photo 3: Remove the cotter pin
Straighten the ends of the cotter pin and pull it out with needlenose pliers.

Photo 4: Remove the hub
Remove the retaining nut and washer, then pull the hub off the spindle. Be careful—the bearings will come out with the hub. Set the bearings on clean newspaper.

Photo 5: Remove the rear bearing and seal
To remove the rear bearing and seal, tap along the rim of the bearing with a block of wood and a hammer. If the seal is rusted to the back of the hub, spray a little WD-40 on the back to help loosen it. If the seal is damaged, replace it. Clean all the grease from the bearings, races and seal with a brush in a small pan of kerosene. Inspect them for signs of wear and replace them if they look suspect. Once the bearings and parts are clean, spray them with brake cleaner and set them aside to dry. Wipe the spindle and the inside of the hub with a clean rag to remove all the grease, and clean them with brake cleaner as well

Photo 6: Pack grease into the bearings
Push the grease into the bearings, working from the wide side of the bearing. Keep pushing the grease into the roller until the cage and rollers are filled. Next coat the inside of the hub with grease. Tap the seal back onto the rear of the hub with a block of wood and hammer, and install the hub and bearings back on the spindle.


Photo 7: Reassemble the hub
Thread the nut back onto the spindle and turn it clockwise. Spin the hub a few times as you tighten to make sure the bearings are seating properly. Tighten the nut firmly. Now back the nut off about an eighth of a turn until the hole in the spindle aligns with a space in the nut. Push in a new cotter pin (available at hardware and auto parts stores) and bend the ends of the pin to keep it from working its way out. Tap the dust cap back into place. Coat the lug threads with anti-seize compound, reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Do the same for each wheel

These are all certified by the NMMA National Marine Manufacturers Association. I'm sure there are more but this is a start. Let me know of others and I'll add them. Have alot more work to do on this sticky!! :D


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Found these sites and the have ALOT of parts...and you can see the parts so you can visualize what you have and what needs to be replaced

etrailer

trailerpartsdepot

Eastern Marine Trailer Parts

realxtrailers



championtrailers



Overtons



iboats trailer parts



surplusunlimited





I am not endorsing any of these...I just did a search and found them...they looked ok...so I posted them. You need to do your own research on them if you want to order from them. :D

From towingworld.com a 50state list of towing laws.

Towing Laws 50 States

This is a PDF on buiding your own trailer but thats not why I posted it. I posted it because of the amount of GREAT general information about trailers. Everything from tires and axles to electrical and bunks. Its ALL there....and is very well organized. Take a look! It is over 5MB so if your on dial up beware!!

Trailer information and plans to build your own.

HOW BEARING BUDDY® WORKS



The axle hub is filled with grease until the grease forces the Bearing Buddy® piston outward about 1/8 inch. Because the piston is spring loaded, the piston exerts a slight (3 psi) pressure against the grease, which maintains a slight pressure between the inside of the hub and the outside environment. When the hub is submerged, water cannot enter the hub because of this pressure.




An automatic pressure relief feature prevents over-filling and over pressurization. Without this feature, the inner seal will be damaged. Grease can be added to the hub through an easily accessible grease fitting located in the center of the piston. Lubricant level (and pressure) can be checked quickly by pressing on the edge of the moveable piston.

If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. Bearing Buddy® will last the life of your trailer. The outer barrel is made of steel and is triple chrome plated. Internal Bearing Buddy® parts are made of stainless steel. Bearing Buddy® is also available with a stainless steel barrel for maximum corrosion protection.

Very good info there Scrapper.Thanks for taking the time to post it.

This picture includes most of the plugs and colors you will see for boats/RV/trailers.

Hear is a quick chart to see what may or may not be trouble with tires that are wearing oddly.