Thread: fogging 25 hp merc

i always change the lower unit grease om my outboard before winter also i add stabil...was wondering if i need to use the fogging stuff.........this being my first boat i am still a rookie i feel after 2 years.......also what about the batteries..thanks in advance fellas
DAN

I'm not sure how many months of storage you have for winter, but consider what fogging does. It puts a coat of corrosion protection on the steel parts in the upper part of your cylinder and head. Normally, these would sit unprotected except for any oil from the fuel that is left. Fogging also has some light solvents that will soften deposits. When you start up in spring, you'll always notice some smoking, depending on the fogging oil used. This will burn off quickly.

So, in my opinion, fog away. It can't hurt a thing and it will only help. I would use Sea Foam in the spring. Just add 1 oz per gallon of gas. No worries as to mixing with Sta-Bil.

reading on the can it says to spray into carb while running.....how would one go about this??????????
DAN

mine says to spray in carburetor until motor stalls, also to spray spray in each cylinder

cat.- what you would want to do is start your motor and spray in the carb, its that simple, also make sure you have water going to your water pump while doing this

Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel and use that mix to warm up and fog the engine. You want stabalized fuel in there for the winter.

Put the muffs on it and warm it up at a high idle. Shut her down and pop the top. Now, look at where the carbs draw in fresh air. These are usually silencers or a cowl of some sort. Remove these.

Start her back up and raise your idle just a tad. Spray the fogging oil into the carbs, but keep the can back a bit 3-4 inches. You want the stuff to "bloom" a bit and not just shoot a stream into the carbs. The engine will start to run rich and stumble or choke. Once you have put a 3-5 second blast into each carb and gotten the motor to choke, you can shut it down.

Now, turn the water off to the motor and pull the muffs off and let her drain down a while. Ten minutes is plenty, five will probably do.

Carefully pull the plugs and make sure you mark the wires. Spray a generous amount of fogging oil into each cylinder pointing the straw toward the top of the cylinder.

Now, slowly pull the starter rope through a few times. You do this to distribute the oil and to kick out the last bit of water in the system. You can also just crank her over with the starter. Keep the spark plug wires well away from the spark plug holes. You don't want to ignite the oil/air mixture or you'll wind up looking like Horseshoer!

Put the plugs back in, put the silencers back on, and put the top back on. She's now ready for some well deserved rest.

In the spring, I would suggest new plugs before starting her. Be sure to gap them properly. If she's a bit hesitant to start, a small shot of Deep Creep will perk her right up. She might smoke a little as the fogging oil burns off, as well as run a tad rough. Some folks start up with old plugs and burn the oil off first, but this can lead to hard starting if the plugs get slightly fouled with fogging oil.

By the way, when was the last time you replaced the impeller and inspected the wear plate and impeller housing for wear? If you decide to change it, wait until spring. Its less likely to "take a set" in the vanes if you don't install before cold weather. Also, when you replace it, be sure to note which way the vanes are set on the old one. You'll have to spin the shaft to get the impeller into the housing and you want to be sure to go the right way.

thanks for the help guys
DAN