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Thread: New boards for boat trailer

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by FurFlyin View Post
    I went this afternoon for a while and got my buddy to back my truck a little further in the water than I normally do. I also came in a little hot onto the trailer. I was glad the boat didn't slide very well. LOL No cranking needed on the winch.
    be careful doing that just a little more and you would have had your winch INSIDE the boat, NOT GOOD !!
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  2. #12
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    I went to a saw mill and got mine cut for me out of Cypress.....should last forever.
    I have spent most my life fishing........the rest I wasted.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by skunked again View Post
    If you want a cheap way to to ensure 100% separation, get a 4x4 PVC post sleeve, rip it in half (assuming you have 2x4 bunks). Place them over your bunks.
    Unless I'm missing something, that only works if the wide side of the 2X4 is the part the boat sits on. Every aluminum boat I've owned, and that's several, the narrow side in of the 2X4 was the surface for the boat.
    Mark 1:17 ...I will make you fishers of men

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlefire View Post
    Fur, next time take a can of silicone spray and before you load the boat spray the bunks real good and hang on when you load.
    How often do you have to respray the bunks?
    Mark 1:17 ...I will make you fishers of men

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    Quote Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman View Post
    be careful doing that just a little more and you would have had your winch INSIDE the boat, NOT GOOD !!
    Yeah I know. I talked very harshly to myself and promised myself I wouldn’t do it again

  6. #16
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    I believe now that the reason a lot of guys are still hesitant on using treated lumber is due in large part to warping issues. Because pressure treated lumber does utilize chemicals, it enhances the moisture content of the lumber. As it sits in the sun, that lumber does have a tendancy to warp. Not sure what I mean, purchase a treated 2x4 and let it sit in the sun for a couple of days and see what happens.

    Older 12 to 14 foot boats with 2x4's turned on there sides were way worse specifically because they only had one mounting or contact point and the bunks pivoted on that mounting bracket of the trailer. Bigger boat trailerers with multiple bunks layed out flat have multiple contact or mounting points so you won't see the warping of the boards.

    So, in my opinion, if you have a trailer that mounts the bunks to one specific contact point on the trailer and the bunk pivots, I would not utilize pressure treated lumber due to warpage. If however you have multiple contact points that mount the bunks to the trailer, you won't have issues with pressure treated lumber.
    I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"

  7. #17
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    Recently I noticed I needed to replace the bunks on my trailer. I chose to do something different than most and am now glad I did. I had previously added plastic glides to my bunks to make it easier to load and unload my boat. They made a big positive difference. Since installing the plastic glides, the only purpose of the carpet on my bunks was to hold moisture to the wood and hasten rotting. So, I replaced the bunks using treated wood and did not put carpet on them. Put the plastic glides back on top to make the boat easier to load and unload. The plastic also serves to insulate the boat from the treated lumber so that is not an issue. Now after using the boat and putting it away, everything dries out in a few hours rather than days. I would never go back to putting carpet on any of the wood on my trailer again.

  8. #18
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    On my last boat trailer I replaced the bunks with regular lumber heavily coated with polyurethane. Then I went to Lowe's HIW and got PVC covers for 4"X4" fence posts. I split them length wise with a fine toothed blade in my table saw. I put them over the bunks and secured them to the bunks with small screws in the side of the bunk. They worked wonderfully with only one flaw. You MUST leave the winch strap connected until the transom of the boat is in the water. If you disconnect the strap on the ramp, the boat will slide off the trailer onto the ramp. That boat was a 16' Jon and I could put it on the trailer all the way up to the bow bumper with the transom mounted trolling motor!
    Clint
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaRay View Post
    Unless I'm missing something, that only works if the wide side of the 2X4 is the part the boat sits on. Every aluminum boat I've owned, and that's several, the narrow side in of the 2X4 was the surface for the boat.
    I've had two aluminum boats, two different manufacturers, both have had 2x4's mounted flat. Work boat is the same way.
    Couldn't you rip (angled, corner to corner) ?

    Clint - I had that same concern. My first couple times launching, I left the bow strap attached. Next time I left some slack in it, boat didn't move, just something that will be different for everyone.
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaRay View Post
    How often do you have to respray the bunks?
    Maybe two or three times in a row and then just when you feel the boat getting harder to load or unload. One thing I didn't mention, don't take your bow strap off till you're right at the water. Depending on how steep the boat ramp is, it will slide off.

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