I did the same thing with the fence post 2yr ago. Best thing Ive done.
I stole an idea from the internet. Get a 4*4 plastic post sleeve, rip it in half. You now have two pieces too cover 2 2*4 bunks, with 100% separation of boat and treated wood. This will leave the ends and bottom s of the boards exposed, greatly reducing drying time. The boards will last alot longer.
I did this 4-5 years ago. I have noticed some scratches on bottom of boat, nothing serious. If that bothers you, go ahead and put some carpet on the top of the bunks.
I do not recommend using the composite boards. They have very little strength, and are quite heavy. I redid our deck with some from Menards. This particular brand requires a max of 16" OC spacing, with 12" recommended, and if I remember correctly, 8-10" OC for stairs treads.
Drinkin coffee, missin fish.silverside LIKED above post
I did the same thing with the fence post 2yr ago. Best thing Ive done.
MEMBER CRAPPIE MAFIA
How did u fasten to wood.? Glue, screws?
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Used screws, in the sides, that way the top stayed smooth.
Screws rated for treated wood.
Drinkin coffee, missin fish.silverside thanked you for this post
Every trailer I've owned ( bout 7) the narrow side of the 2X4 sat against the boat hull so the 4X4 fence wouldn't work. I have used trailer pads before and they work great, but the boat will slide off if you disconnect the strap and stop suddenly. Ask me how I know!
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Mark 1:17 ...I will make you fishers of mensilverside LIKED above post
Ok I have made the repair. This is a 6 canoe trailer that I converted to a jon boat trailer. The boat sits on 2 treated 4x4s. I ended up topping the wood with a pvc moulding called Azek. It is 3/4x3 1/2 x 8. Fits over the wood perfectly. Holy cow guys... sure glad for the pvc recommendations. That boat slides on and off with little effort.
SeaRay, I see why the bow strap is a critical factor
pg3 LIKED above post
Go into Lowes and walk over to the Pro desk and order Cypress boards the size you need. Will take about a week to get em, but they are cost friendly and will never rot.
JET4, silverside LIKED above post
My family has always replaced bad boards with treated lumber, carpet leaving a little open seam along the bottom to help with drying, never had to replace them again. Examine the board ends and make sure you have the grain arced up in the middle and light taper the rear ends. Extra treat anywhere you cut them and your'e good to go.