Forget anything but federal premium. If your rifle doesnt shoot FP it has a problem. material of the stock is not the problem. You can not have any pressure on the barrel. Remington puts a pressure point in all of there production guns. They dont in there custom guns. Go figure? If you will take a strip of paper and slide it between the stock and barrel you will see what I speak . The old saying is a dollar bill will work, but that is poo-poo. You need more clearance than that. pick up a 1/2 in dowl rod and wrap it with sandpaper. Remove the stock and put it in a vise. use the rod and paper to open up the barrel channel. You cant do any damage to the accuracy. I like about 1/6 in. clearance. More just looks bad. Use some tru-oil to cote the raw wood. If synthetic forget the oil. Most likely you have a plastic made from recycled Pepsi Cola bottles. They are truly garbage , but will work. I know that you will see a difference in the point of impact. I dont recommend that you try bedding until you understand more about the process. It is not difficult but complicated. If you get the steps out of sequence you can destroy a nice rifle. It does not matter the material the stock is made of . It must be bedded properly !!!! One more note. Wrap your off hand around the action as you remove the 2 screws. You will feel the barrel pushing away from the stock. That is what you want to get rid of. I will send you a PM

My worst night mare just happened. My local deputy friend just brought me a 30-06 . Makes me want cry to see a grown man toting trash !!!!!!!

Turns out I was wrong about synthetic not having free floating issues. I ran a dollar bill under the barrel last nigtht and there was enough contact at the very front of the forearm to bunch up the bill . No wonder my groups deteriorate after a couple boxes of shells. The front of the forearm sounds like just about the worst place to have contact issues to me. Why don't they just make them right the first time so people don't have to fool with this?? So I'm gonna get a dowel like you advised and sand it out. This is something I can do on my own. You are right though, the bedding is something I'd rather have a gunsmith do for me. I got your PM and thank you for the contact. I'm gonna see how it shoots after I get this forearm contact taken care of and then decide if I want to take this further.

As far as the ammo goes...I went to two stores last night and none of them had Federal Premium Vital Shoks. So I got Winchester Supreme Elites. I have a buddy that runs those through his 700 and loves em. So I'm gonna try them out and see how they group.

Sounds like the deputy is a man with a true appreciation for fine arms

Again, thanks a ton for your help with this.

__________________
Good Moses - Pilot of Blind Minnow Fishing Club
3 Bald Stooges of Percy Priest Lake - Co Founder
"You're not just fluous. You're super fluous."
- Fat Mike

Ha ! Ha ! Or Poo ! Poo !

OK BC I am waiting to hear how you did. !!!!!!! Let me know.

Well I went last night to get my materials: 1/2 in dowel rod and heavy, medium, and fine grit sand paper. I got to the house and was about to disassemble the rifle when I remembered that the bolts are set at certain pressures. I don't have a torque wrench or screwdriver to make sure that when I reassemble it that I set them at the right poundage. So I went to Bass Pro (hate that place, but it's close to the house) and they had a Wheeler Engineering Fat Wrench for $60!!!So I'm gonna check at an auto parts store and see if they have one for less first. If they don't have one, I guess I'm just gonna get the Fat Wrench cause I want to make sure I do this the right way.

By the way, do you by any chance know the poundage per turns for a Remington 700? I believe it is 60 - 65 pounds, but I can't find my owner's manual so I might just have to call Remington.

Once I get the forearm sanded out and the contact points are negated, I am going to the range on October 31 with a friend of mine who is an absolute gun nut. I will post pictures of my groups at 100 and 200 yards . Kinda makes me nervous to actually show my "report card," haha, but I don't care. Also, at the shooting range here they have range officers who make you qualify to move onto the 200 yard range. They stand there with you to watch your groups. So I'm gonna have my friend who can shoot the blacks out of a sparrow's eyes at any yardage and a Range Officer breathing down my neck the whole time . I'll be fine though.

__________________
Good Moses - Pilot of Blind Minnow Fishing Club
3 Bald Stooges of Percy Priest Lake - Co Founder
"You're not just fluous. You're super fluous."
- Fat Mike

Something that I would like to add here if I may, to me it is very important to see where my first shot hits as to compared to the rest of the group. I'm talking about the first shot out of a cold clean barrel, then watch and keep track of how the rest of the group develops. If your groups stay nice and round as the shooting sesson unfolds great you are good to go, if the groups start wondering vertical or horizonal or somewhere else then maybe a glass bed job is in order. My 2 cents worth anyway.

Dont worry about torque. get the front lug screw as tight as you can . No big deal. Dont expect too much. You have got to bed the action before you see the accuracy that you want. When The job is complete it wont matter where the first shot goes , they will all be next to one another. I dont own a TQ wrench. You will notice that the first group will be very low in comparison to where it was. I suggest that you shoot the first rounds at 25 yds. You may not be on target at 100 yds. NOTE; DONT PUT A LOT OF TORQUE ON THE TRIGGERGUARD SCREW. Just snug it up. Keep me posted. I might not be able to wait 2 weeks.

I put together a cheap plastic tool box that I carry to the range. Appropriate wrenches and screwdrivers , cleaning stuff, rags etc. As you shoot after having the gun apart the screws sometimes loosen from vibration. Good to have what it takes to snug it back up. My stocks and scopes were torqued to 35 in lb, but go with what foulhook tells you. He's leading you in the right direction. Down the road a good stock will give you a bit better foundation when you have a couple hundred lyin around. Sounds like you're havin fun.

__________________

Chairman Of The Bored
Prisoner of the White Lines on the Freeway
Fishin my life away.

Use Rig Universal. It is medium heavy grease that will protect the rifle / guns from the elements. I ran a test on that stuff and it is somekinda good. I put rig on a common nail and some of the leading products on a common nail and left them out in the rain for months. The nail with Rig did not rust on the end that was coated . I like that. Put a good coat all over on the rifle. Use the Remington oil to wipe it down after every use. Dont put the gun up for extended periods with finger prints on the metal surface. . You wont have any rust even after hunting in the rain. After every 25 or 30 rounds clean the bore. Dont get it spotless. If you get it too clean you can loose accuracy. You will have to get it dirty again for the accuracy to return. ( You must have a very accurate rifle to notice this) After every season give it a good cleaning and put it away till next year. It will be fun getting it dirty again. The front lug screws should not be getting loose. I know with proper bedding that will go away. I got lost here for a moment. You should not have to remove the barreled action from the stock everytime you use it. That is why you want something like RIG>