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Thread: Preheat Injectors?

  1. #21
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    Jan 2017
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    Billy WE ARE GOOD
    I have gone over these with a mag. glass looking for cracks... Remember I was a safety guy for Cargil
    Wearing 2 gloves when prolly 1 would do....Long pants....leather apron draped across my legs...Safety glasses....Leather boots
    when slippers would prolly do
    I wouldn't try to do production molds with these... BUT
    With a little tweaking... they don't suk...and are pretty air tight to shut off flow when needed... couple of drips
    THEY MIGHT come back and BITE ME IN THE ........( "G " your OK ) BUTT for now they will have to do...

  2. #22
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    Dec 2014
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    Hoodlum


    You should be searching for Viton o-rings which you should be able to find at an auto parts store that has an assortment.

    Here’s a chart to narrow down your search for the right sized o-ring:

    https://www.marcorubber.com/viton-o-...saAgRREALw_wcB

    Hope this helps


    billygee :rolleyes:
    Thanks HOODLUM thanked you for this post

  3. #23
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    Thanks Billy!
    Prolly no bait time today....Water trap on my air compressor needs attention
    WHAT A MESS

  4. #24
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    I have wrapped my injector with pipe insulation and that has helped a lot! I didn’t have boiler type when I did it so I used foam hot water pipe insulation which melts when plastisol gets on it but I will replace with fiberglass when the foam wears down a bit. Also, pre-heating the ingectot and tip on a hot plate will make a huge difference. Harbor freight has IR heat sensors for like $12 if you catch them on sale, I usually shoot for between 325-350.

    make sure you use a heat stabilizer, not sure if you did but your color is highly effected by the use (or lack there of) stabilizer and NOT overheating.

    I have a large injector and I would have a difficult time getting to all those injection ports while the plastic was still hot- good luck with the smaller one.. may just have to take a few shots to get them all.

    Id also reccomend that you use a countersink tool to make your injection ports more unirom. That will make for a faster, safer fill of the molds and prevent more spillage. The more plastic you keep in the injector, the longer it stays hot.

  5. #25
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    Jan 2017
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    Hey KZaker
    Thanks for the input!
    I changed plastics... Not using that brand anymore
    The Bucket mold wasn't built to be injected but poured It poured good worms before I went APE on the legs and tails!
    Unfortunately....

    REST IN PEACE Bucket mold
    I was doing some 2 color worms and dropped the center section on the floor.......

  6. #26
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    This site has always been my go to for the info I needed when I decided to start injecting baits. I did read, everything out there ,I looked at how to videos as well as personal YouTube videos. I still got burned pretty bad because of my mistake. I too tried one of the turkey injectors for small work...it never performed right ever. I have 3 injectors the ones made for plastisol. This stuff is so dangerous we forget about the dangers of taking short cuts or using what we think is cost savings short cuts. Can spell disaster, or in the case of this thread disappointing results. What’s great here is the input from guys that have been doing this for years. Bottom line is we help a fellow bait maker with his issues. I really love the satisfaction of creating and catching fish on our own creations. Good shooting and safe shooting to all!
    A Proud member of Lake Allatoona and Lake Weiss (Team Geezer)
    Likes snake River, billygee LIKED above post

  7. #27
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    Feb 2018
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    Hoodlum: Fiberglass resin works fairly well for molds if your looking for an economical material. I have used alumilite (I think that’s what it’s called). The alumilite was much better quality finished product, and I have a gallon of body filler that I am going to try to make some molds out of: it’s also a very inexpensive option you can try.

    Liftbite56: I agree, proper tools and safety equipment is absolutly a REQUIREMENT for 350 degree molten plastics! I’m not sure how popular it is to insulate injectors but it made a HUGE difference with my methods. Along with keeping the injector and tip on a hot plate while prepping the plastic. I always have too many sets of gloves on the bench so I NEVER forget to wear them either.

    I would like to see a better quality molding material at a more reasonable price. Alumilite is super expensive but the quality is fantastic compared to those I have made from resin and I done expect a lot from the bondo body filler... there is a lot of science involved in making a mold that works and to be honest: that science is beyond me! Lol. I’ll keep working on new molds and hope to be able to offer some more advice in the future-

    enjoy guys and be safe! No lure is worth a burn with this stuff-

    karl
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