Yes...it's to prevent heavier jigs such as bass jigs from pushing the lid over and hooking the rope. A lighter jig, being trolled probably wouldn't move the lid enough to hook, but some of the heavier jigs and carolina rigs may possible do so. That's also why the rope runs down through a hole in the brick and is knotted on the bottom, to prevent a dragging lure from hooking the rope should it be tied on the outside of the brick.
How about using "tomatoe stakes" with 3 or 4 lids fixed at various depths? Or even bamboo? Then you just drive them into the bottom and your done. Could be put together on the water so you wouldn't have much trouble with space for transport. If there is a furniture factory or some other factory with hardwood stakes as scrap, you can usually pick them up for free. I have a truck load of them now that I have been trying to figure out the best way to use. Thanks for this thread, now I got me an idea.
After thinking it over, there really isn't a need for the liquid nails and I've decided, mainly thinking about your question why it was needed at all, to forget the gluing to the lid. It's just an extra step, not really needed. I realize this isn't an earth moving decision, just wanted you to know yours was a good question.
I really like your idea..especially the 'collapsable' part.....
You could get a bunch of these in the boat and pitch 'em overboard before anyone knew what you were doing....for that matter....you could even keep 6 or 10 in your boat and while fishing and if you found a very promising spot that needed some crappie attraction...just pitch 'em out....
My question about the liquid nails was based on the 'collapsable' part of your idea....they would seem to 'collapse' completely (and take up less room in the boat) if the noodle was not glued to the lid....just thinkin...
I would definitely 'test' one in shallow or clear water to make sure the lid stays horizontal like it is supposed to with the noodle not glued to the lid...
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Without the glue would be best as you pointed out...to keep the stability of the lid, maybe it's better to use the bigger diameter foam noodle....would only need a piece a couple inches thick and would be a better, more stable platform for the lid to float on, and since it's a horazontal profile rather than vertical as shown in the diagram....the foam could still be glued on without interfering with the collapsability.
Thanks, you started me on a better path. Good Fishing, Mac
That a good idea but after a few days Noodles will loose their buoyancy when they halt underwater. I believe nimrod idea will work better or use something else for a float. john
Seriously, thanks for the heads up about floatation. One thing for sure, that's something critical I didn't know about the noodle foam. We'll go back to our original plan to use styrafoam. You've saved the project. Very much obliged, Thank You.
That a good idea but after a few days Noodles will loose their buoyancy when they halt underwater. I believe nimrod idea will work better or use something else for a float. john
I didn't realize noodles would loose buoyancy....
I know there are actually different kinds of foam....open cell, closed cell, ethefoam...any body have an idea as to which type of foam construction actually lasts the longest in water....?
__________________ Buy it new and tear it apart to see how it works!!
Buy it new and tear it apart to see how it works!!
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