The picture doesn't show it, but many pin mins are only painted on one side, with the back being a nickel or gold finish. I get 'em from a source in northern Ohio and modify them with Krystal flash, spider legs, etc. Dynamite on bluegill. Unmodified, I use them icefishing.
I prefer the nickle finish myself and I do only paint one side (Vinyl latex exterior paint). Tip, you only need a little flux when soldering the hook to the shell.
I saw these on another site and I think they look good. I am going to try my hand at making one or two of these for myself.
is that just for ice fishing? if not how do you fish it? Is that a willow blade? they sho is purty!
People fish them year round under a slip bobber. The nickle finish acts like a flash under water. The small weight of the pinmin gives stability to the hook yet it is easy for the fish to inhale. You can get the shells at Jann's Netcraft. Solder the hook to the shell, paint, tip with a wax worm and fish on!
I used to fish the CJ&S 2 spots alot and really liked the size 12. I was kicking around trying to make some and was wondering how they do the powder coating, bottle, brush??? I just got a toaster oven, and some powder paint. I still have to get some ice blades. I was looking at lure craft as they had some smaller than normal blades i wanted to try on 16-18 hooks, I just hate to pay more for shipping than products. Anyone know a discount code for lure craft?
I fish all these in open water either tight lined or under a float with red worms or plastics if i have to, they work great.
Solder the hook to the shell, paint, tip with a wax worm and fish on!
The ones I buy don't look like they've been soldered. I can't see a ridge, hook shank or anything on the back--perfectly flat and polished. How does that work?
The ones I buy don't look like they've been soldered. I can't see a ridge, hook shank or anything on the back--perfectly flat and polished. How does that work?
I can't tell you. I'm still into basic soldering then powder painting and baking in a toaster oven.
Once I get my tools rounded up I like to plug in my soldering iron and let it heat up while prepping my materials. First things first, the tip of the soldering gets hot - up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, so don't touch it. If you're using a new soldering iron you will want to put a small amount of solder on the tip of the hot iron before you start working. This is called tinning the iron and you only have to do it with a new iron. Once you start using it will usually have some solder on it already and be ready to go.
HOW TO SOLDER
Soldering is defined as "the joining of metals by a fusion of alloys which have relatively low melting points". In other words, you use a metal that has a low melting point to adhere the surfaces to be soldered together. Soldering is more like gluing with molten metal than anything else. Soldering is also a must have skill for all sorts of electrical and electronics work. It is also a skill that must be taught correctly and developed with practice.
Ice blades are usually soldered to Mustad 3282 (nickel) and 3260B (gold) hooks. Bronze hooks will NOT solder unless you scrape the finish off.
Soldering is nearly instantaneous, if the solder doesn't flow around the work in 1/4 of a second then something is wrong and you need to start over again.
Don't let the joint move until it has cooled enough to set, it should look mirror shiny all around.
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