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Thread: weedless

  1. #1
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    Default weedless


    I've seen guys rigging small jigs/grubs texas rigged. Do you have to set the hook like a bass for the hook to go through the plastic and set in the crappies mouth? I would think you'd miss a lot, but some say it works good.

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    I've been thinking about that too, but I haven't tried it. It may work better with a really soft plastic.

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    Doesn't take much at all...nothing like bass fishing. Just a little snap of the wrist is all you need.

  4. #4
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    Thumbs up You're right ....

    Quote Originally Posted by FishnLine
    I've been thinking about that too, but I haven't tried it. It may work better with a really soft plastic.
    It would work better with softer plastics. Problem is, they'd tear up faster, too. That's one reason I don't "texas rig" my plastics on jigheads, or use the Charlie Brewer slider heads, much ..... preferring to use a weedless jighead that lets me thread the plastic body onto the hook, and let the weedguard do the work of keeping me from getting hung-up. I don't tear up the plastics so often, and I'm still weedless. I don't set the hook any harder, OR any softer, when using weedless jigheads ... than I do when using non-weedless. And I use 4lb & 6lb mono lines, for the most part. So, no ... I'm not setting the hook with my whole body, like some Bass anglers do (or were taught to do) ... but, I am setting the hook with speed/force, just with arm & wrist motion.
    I'm not saying that "texas rigging" a plastic bait don't work ... but, hollow bodied plastics are kinda hard to use with this hooking method. Solid body plastics are better, but then you get into the deal with the softer ones being easier to set the hook with, but tearing up easier ... and the harder ones being more difficult for the hook to go thru, thus causing you to have to set the hook harder (and sometimes use heavier line), and they still tear after a few hooksets. With a "thread on" type of jighead, that's weedless, you don't have to be constantly resetting the hook into the plastic body, and you're less likely to tear the body on a hookset. Even so, soft plastics and hollow plastics will tear ... usually from the collar barb pulling thru the body. One way to combat that happening, is to use superglue/anglers glue between the head of the jig and the front end of the plastic body. Once glued, they're less likely to pull down the hook shank/collar, and therefore are not split open by the retainer barb. I've used superglues for this very purpose, especially with hollow tubes. It works !! And I've even glued a tube onto a jighead, allowed it less than a minute to dry, before casting it .... and caught fish on that very cast. So, I don't think the dried glue (or smell/scent of it) deters the fish from hitting it.
    With few exceptions, I use weedless jigheads for most all of my Crappie fishing methods. And, most of the time, the plastic body only comes off for a change of color or shape/size. ........ cp

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    Good point cp. I haven't gotten any weedless jig heads yet, but that will soon be part of my tackle.

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    Where's a good place to buy those weedless jig heads? I saw one on somebody's post that had a "V" configuration, it looked really nice
    A positive additude may not fix all of your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worthwhile.

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    Default glue

    What type of super glue?

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    you can use what they call tex-posed this is where you bring the hook all the way through the grub or whatever and then just lift the plastic onto the hook point,this makes it weedles and on the strike the point will expose its self very easy,there use to be (and may still be)a weedless jig from odams that had a small wire v shape weed guard that rested just under the point,dont see them here any more but was a good jig for brush. fuzz
    IT'S 5--O-CLOCK SOMEWHERE,,,MIKE-p

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    ive had really good luck with the charlie brewer weedless jigs. i do miss alot of fish but sometimes when i get on alot of fish ill turn it around regular and it turns out to be bream or small crappie.cant beat them when fishing alot of logs. i havent tried the weed guard heads but will soon.

  10. #10
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    Arrow "canepol", NP64, "old fuzzy" --

    "canepol"
    Those V-wing jigheads are custom made. Paul Mullins of P&S Custom Tackle is the man who makes them. He can be reached at - [email protected]
    I have them in 1/32 & 1/16oz head weights - #4 & #2 hook sizes - bronze, gold, and red hook colors.

    Nightprowler64
    I use Henkel Loctite Super Glue, Gel Control. http://a1061.g.akamai.net/7/1061/541...che/296821.jpg

    "old fuzzy"
    Unfortunately, Terry Oldham is no longer producing the weedless Crappie jigheads. His weedless jigheads were pretty good, and I used them for over a decade, with good success. The upside to them, the thin wire loop guard, is also it's biggest downside. When it "works", it works great ... but, when the wire gets bent badly or broken, then it's just another open hook jighead. That's one reason I switched to the custom jigheads I'm now using. With these, I don't have to worry about the weedguard coming "undone" (while being dragged thru the brush, bouncing off an object when cast), I don't have to "reset" the weedguard, and I don't have to worry about them "breaking". Also, I can get more variety in head weight/hook size (Oldham's "Sure-lock" only came in 1/16oz w/#4 bronze hook ... the "Speedloader", insert type head, only came in 1/32 & 1/16oz w/#4 bronze hook). If wanted, I can also get gold or red hooks in my custom made jigheads.
    And, after having used all three styles (wire loop, brush, V-wing) ... I'm totally satisfied that the custom made V-wing and brush style jigheads are superior in function, to the Oldham's. IMHO .......... cp

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